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Bondi to Manly walk

by | Sep 16, 2025 | Australia

Sydney harbour is arguably one of the prettiest natural harbours in the world. And it’s huge. Occassionally it’ll be used to give context to a large volume – “This is as big as X Sydney harbours!”, but I don’t think anyone really knows what that means. Just that it’s big…

Anyway, one big plus about Sydney harbour is that large chunks of the waterfront is open to the public, and much is natural bushland. Recently, effort has been made to link up existing walking tracks to make a continuous walking track from Bondi beach to Manly beach.

The walk itself is about 80km long, and includes crossing the iconic Sydney Harbour Bridge. The walk can be done from either direction.

The start and end were logical markers, given both these beaches are well-known and big drawcards to the city. However, there’s also options to extend the walk in either direction. There’s a great option from Bondi to Maroubra, so we included this section as the first part of our walk.

It’s hard to get “lost”, given you’re in one of the world’s largest cities, but there’s definitely a lot of spots where the path/road is not clear. The Bondi to Manly website recommends using their app for navigation, which was definitely a good idea

Bondi to Manly map – we added an extension to Maroubra (bottom right)

Day 1: Maroubra to Bondi (12km)

Our first day is technically not on the Bondi to Manly walk, but is definitely worth adding to the journey. It has dramatic coastal scenery and a number of beautiful beaches such as Maroubra, Coogee and Tumbarumba. 

Walking on this day is quite easy and a good introduction to the walk. There’s some hills going up and down between headlands and beach, but it’s mostly on well-formed concrete paths.

It does get very busy though! Especially on sunny days

Day 2: Bondi to Rose Bay (21km)

One feature with an urban walk like this, is that there’s a lot of flexibility on where each day starts and ends. We reached Bondi by 1pm yesterday, so decided to push onto the Gap and make it a 20km day – it meant today would be a much easier 12kms, and give us time to get back to watch the end of the Sydney Marathon runners finishing. 

By finishing at the Gap on day 1, it made for an easy 250m walk to the Watsons Bay ferry terminal.

Heading North from Bondi, the route moves away from the coast around the golf course (premium land!) The number of walkers through this section is significantly less than south of Bondi, but picks up again around the Gap. 

From the Gap the route passes near the naval base and up to South Head and the Hornsby lighthouse. It’s incredible to know there’s about 70km of walking to go to reach the North Head – it seems so close!

Between Watsons Bay and Rose Bay there’s the picturesque Parsley Bay bridge and a nice bush-walk between Bottle and Glass Point and Rose Bay. 

Through here is also Vaucluse House, plus an opportunity to admire some very impressive houses!

Rose Bay is a good finish point for the day, due to the regular ferry service back to Circular Quay

Day 3: Rose Bay to North Sydney (19km)

Today is probably the most iconic day, due to the crossing of the bridge. 

Starting in Rose Bay, the walk first goes through the mansions of Point Piper. Glimpses of the harbour between houses indicates why this area is so popular!

Moving through Double Bay and Rushcutters Bay, the landscape reflects the inner city preference for denser living and becomes more urbanised. The Botanic Gardens provides a nice respite from the city, and provides great views of the Opera House and bridge

Circular Quay and the  Rocks were very busy (as always!), but also impacted by the marathon the day before and the imminent departure of a cruise-ship.

From the Rocks, the walk heads up and over the bridge and into North Sydney. Definitely quieter on the northern side!

After passing Kirribili house, the plan was to stop at North Sydney wharf, but we decided to push on to Neutral Bay wharf to shave off a few km’s the next day. By doing so we also avoided about 200 steps first thing in the morning!

Day 4: North Sydney to Spit bridge (20km)

Moving away from Sydney, there’s a series of large peninsulas first up. Cremorne is probably the most interesting, as there’s a 3km thin strip of bushland that lines the coastline around the point. Apparently it was decided when opening up the area that the first 100ft from the waterline had to remain public land. It’s a beautiful area

From Cremorne, the walk then moves through Mosman and past the zoo. From Mosman, the trail returns to bushland and becomes quite peaceful. You wouldn’t realise you’re still in the middle of such a large city!

The Sydney Harbour National Park covers most of the rest of the trail to Manly from here

Middle Head is a fascinating spot to spend some time exploring. It was set up with a defence battery to attack enemy ships that entered the harbour. It was part of a comprehensive defense network. Many of the gun emplacements, defensive channels and observations posts remain.

Walking around Sydney harbour it becomes apparent how much of the waterfront is assigned to military and defence installations. At the time, many of these locations were quite remote, but the city has grown over time and consumed them. Some spots (such as the Penguins submarine base) have been rehabilitated into public spaces

From Middle Head the route heads along Balmoral Beach and up to the Spit to finish the penultimate day. The Spit Bridge is a key link for the people living north of it – there’s not a lot of other road options to get down to the rest of Sydney without a long diversion! 

There’s regular buses along this route to get back to the city

Day 5: Spit Bridge to Manly (20km)

The final day is one of the most scenic. The first half completes the journey through the Sydney National Park to the Manly wharf. The second half loops up and around the North Head, finishing on Manly beach. It’s only 200m from the beach back across to the ferry terminal

After crossing Spit Bridge, we crossed Clontarf beach and were back into the Sydney Harbour National Park. 

The trail follows the bushland through to the outskirts of Manly, and is very different to the bushland further into the harbour. The plants are much more coastal and vegetation more sparse, due to the prevailing winds.

After passing the Manly ferry terminal, the trail heads up into the North Head via Collins Beach. There’s a lot of small beaches throughout the harbour, but this one was particularly scenic. It even has a waterfall!

North Head has an old quarantine station and remnants of military defence (no surprise by now). Most of it is part of the Sydney Harbour National Park.

The highlight was reaching the head, and looking back at the South Head we had been at only a few days (and 70km!) ago… Having walked the route, landmarks became easy to identify

After North head, there’s a relatively short walk via Shelly Beach to the finish at Manly Beach. With the coastline exposed to the open ocean, the coastline in this section is very rugged

The Bondi to Manly walk is an excellent harbour walk that truly showcases Sydney’s magnificent harbour. It’s relatively easy, however there is more elevation gain than you’d first expect.

Public transport makes it easy to start/ stop each day from a central base, but be aware that some sections are relatively remote and access points are limited (particularly in the northern section). 

Stay somewhere in central Sydney, and each day can easily be reached by transport in less than an hour!

The Great Appalachian Adventure 7

by | Sep 8, 2025 | Appalachian Trail

Gorham to Mt Kathadin (Mile 1896 to Mile 2200)

After thinking it would never arrive, finally the last state! Maine!

But first was an interesting side-trip to see a 1954 plane crash on Mt Success (not named after the flight). Two people lost their lives in the crash due to poor visibility

 

Flight 792 crashed on Mt Success in 1954

The site is about 0.5mi from the AT

With less that 300 miles to go and the big mountains behind us, we were starting to get optimistic about progress. However, the Mahoosuc Notch was next up. This is considered the toughest mile on the AT, and I think it’s a clear winner. Nothing else comes close. It took 2 hours to cover the one mile, mostly by scrambling over, under and around massive boulders. It really sapped morale!

Mahoosuc Notch – it gets worse…

After the rough introduction to Maine, the trail became a bit easier, albeit still with plenty of hills, mud patches and water crossings.

We stopped in Stratton, which a beautiful mountain town. Following Stratton is Monson, which is the last town on the AT before the final “100 Mile Wilderness”

Monson is a popular spot for hikers to rest, regroup and resupply for the final 100 miles!

water crossing on the trail

Every mountain in this section – “is that Kathadin?”

The 100 Mile Wilderness is not technically difficult, but good planning is needed to ensure sufficient supplies, and support is difficult is there’s a problem. For most north-bound hikers, it isn’t terribly challenging as by now everyone is familiar with the gear they need and the supplies they should have for that distance. The wilderness itself is very scenic, and we were fortunate to have good weather throughout

100 Mile Wilderness

100 Mile Wilderness

After about 6 days in the wilderness, we finally reached Baxter State Park!

The end of the AT is quite peculiar. The designer of the AT wanted Kathadin to be the end-point of the trail, but it had been bequeathed to the people of Maine in perpetuity. An agreement was reached where AT hikers are allowed to summit in return for Baxter remaining in state hands…

100 Mile Wilderness requires careful preparation

The end is in sight!

Baxter State Park has a campground hikers can use, but it is limited. The logistics for the final summit require careful preparation.

Fortunately, the park also have cabins in a number of locations around the park. Of course, they book out months in advance but if you’re lucky you can call and secure an accessible cabin if no-one has booked it yet. It was fantastic to finish the last night o the trail at a lake-side cabin!

Finally, after 151 days, 2200 miles and 450,000 feet of elevation gain, the summit day was here!

The final summit is a 4000ft climb over 5 miles. Whilst normally this would be considered a typical tough day on the trail, most hikers carry a light pack today and the excitement carries them up this final mountain. Upon reaching the top, there’s a queue for the photo and lots of celebrations!

Personally, I found the finish of the trail to be a little frustrating. Whilst I can appreciate the significance of this particular mountain, the conclusion of the trail requires a 5 mile hike back down, followed by a shuttle to Millinocket, followed by a shuttle to Bangor, followed by other transport options back to the real world. There’s limited sense of conclusion at the end of the trail.

Am I glad I did it? Yes

Would I do it again? No

It is a really tough trail. Really tough. It’s a mental challenge to keep going through the rain, drought, heat, cold, mud, rocks, pointless hill climbs & terrifying descents.

Anyone with sufficient fitness that can put one foot in front of the other can do it, but they need incredible mental resilience to keep going. It’s an incredible challenge

The Great Appalachian Adventure 6

by | Sep 8, 2025 | Appalachian Trail

Kent to Gorham (Mile 1474 to Mile 1875)

Leaving Kent in the rain made for a pleasant afternoon after the heat and humidity over the past few weeks. Hiking clothes would be soaked in sweat at the end of the day, and still wet from sweat when putting them back on the next morning. Not a pleasant experience.

The rain continued during camp setup, and overnight became very significant. We later learned it was considered a 1-in-500 rain event and caused considerable damage to the trail and local infrastructure. Ahead of us, Vermont had a state of emergency declared and hikers were advised to avoid the state completely. We also learned later that a hiker was tragically swept away at a creek crossing and drowned a few days hike ahead of us. We stopped at that creek for a break with other hikers on the day before his body was found downstream. At the time, it was a very peaceful & beautiful spot for a break.

Water and mud in the tent after the big rains

High creek levels become hazardous after rain

Connecticut is a pretty state, but with all the water around, this became the focus of the time on the trail here. In some sections, mud became quite thick on the trail, and any attempt to avoid it was quickly crushed. Once again, choosing to hike in boots instead of trail runners proved to be helpful.

Within this section in Connecticut and Massachusetts I managed to make up some distance with a 40 mile and 25 mile day back-to-back. Hiking 100km in two days seems a significant achievement in hindsight, but at the time it flowed quickly.

Yes, this is the trail…

enjoy the scenery and don’t look down

The next state is Vermont. Vermont is often referred to as “Vermud” due to the usual state of the trails. With the extra rain, this was always going to be an issue, and it didn’t disappoint. Obviously hiking through mud is much harder than firm trails. It’s slower and takes much more effort. Despite this, Vermont itself is a beautiful state and was enjoyable.

The trail here overlaps the famous Long Trail from the MA/VT border for about 100 miles. A particular highlight through here is Little Rock Pond. It’s a beautiful shelter right beside a pristine lake.

Media reports of the rain damage behind us

not much chance of avoiding mud

Crossing into New Hampshire sees a return to big mountains. The White Mountains start at the border, and are definitely one of the major highlights of the trail. Despite the difficult (and slow) trails, the scenery is incredible and represents what a mountain trail really should look like.

Mt Moosilake – not sure the views were worth it…

Mt Moosilake descent was certainly challenging

First up was slackpacking from the Notch hostel over Mt Mist, then the big one – Mt Moosilauke. It’s a long, hard slog up the mountain to the peak, followed by a long, steep descent on the other side. And of course, the top was clouded in, so didn’t even get a good view…

The mud continues…
Views in the Whites

Over the next few days, there were more mountains to cross – Mt Wolf, the Kinsmans, Mt Lincoln, Mt Lafayette, Mt Garfield, etc. Stunning views, but really tough hiking

Hikers resting at a mountain lake
Views from Franconia Ridge

One unique feature of hiking in the Whites is the possibility of work-for-stay in the huts. The huts are fully inclusive and cater to tourists visiting the area. They are very expensive normally, but sometimes they will offer a couple hikers the opportunity to sleep in their common area & a cooked dinner & breakfast in return for a couple hours of work. Fortunately this worked for us at Mizpah hut – 2 hours cleaning out the freezers for a warm stay!

Franconia ridge – above the tree line
Photo opportunity before the weather moved in

The next milestone is Mount Washington. It’s not the highest point on the AT, but the climb is nearly 4000ft from the base. The weather is quite changeable and fortunately had perfect weather for the climb up. The top is quite accessible by road and rail, so was packed with tourists. There’s a line to get a photo with the sign at the top, but the crowd let thru-hikers take priority – a small benefit for walking up instead of driving!

Mt Washington summit is slightly off the AT. Views were better away from the crowds
Mount Washington train looked like a better option than hiking up

Gorham is the next main town towards the end of the Whites, and definitely a welcome rest town after the challenging terrain.

The Great Appalachian Adventure 5

by | Sep 4, 2025 | Appalachian Trail

Harpers Ferry to Kent (Mile 1026 to Mile 1474)

From Harpers Ferry, the trail continues into Maryland and then Pennsylvania. Maryland and the first part of Pennsylvania was a welcome break from the Virginia grind and constant hills. The terrain became easier & faster, with plenty of civil war history to break up the days of walking. 

The Mason/Dixon line is in Maryland, and I don’t think the line has moved much over time. Slow-traveling through a country allows time to get a better insight into the culture. It was apparent that the southern states conform with “Southern” values and the northern states much more “Northern”. What was surprising is how fast the culture swaps between the two – this occurred through southern Pennsylvania. Towns were consistently “southern” up to Maryland, then there’s a patchwork where it flips southern/northern a few times, then solidly “northern”. It was really interesting to observe

Rocky trails in Pennsylvania. A sign of things to come…

Shortly after entering Pennsylanvia, the half-way point is finally reached! It’s a bitter-sweet moment, recognising that there’s still a long long way to go…

The half way moves around a bit, as the trail gets minor changes and revisions over time. Always nice to be able to celebrate multiple times!

One of the more bizarre half way milestones is the “half gallon challenge” at the Ironmasters hostel. Of course, the ice cream they sell comes in a container slightly less than a half gallon, so hikers also buy a pint to ensure the half gallon is consumed. Sounds like great marketing for selling icecream!

1100 miles done!

The (unofficial) half way point

Next highlight was Duncannon, where the rocky trail of “Rocksylvania” really starts. Leading into Duncannon is quite flat and fast, and I easily completed a 26 mile “half marathon” day from Boiling Springs. 

Most hikers struggle with the rocks in the next section. Yes, they are slow and brutal, but I found that it wasn’t as tough as I expected. I think this was largely due to my choice to hike in proper hiking boots rather than the popular trail runners. They provide a lot more support and resistance to the rocks underfoot, and really are a better tool for the job. Personally, I prefer the high ankle support and solid sole to the lighter trail runners

Duncannon, Pennsylvania

Yes, this is the trail

Plenty of views in this section

In some places, the rocks were ridiculous!

Finally coming out of Pennsylvania, there’s hope that the rocks disappear once you reach New Jersey and New York. Nope! That’s just hype to keep you going. Some sections in these two states are a real scramble…

But one advantage of these more populous states is the concept of “deli-blazing”. There’s a lot more taverns, cafes and restaurants close to the trail that give hikers the chance to eat real food. These are always very welcome!

Crossing into New Jersey

Flatter rock-free terrain felt very fast!

In addition to the gourmet meals, a highlight through this section is the Warwick Drive-In. The drive-in cinema allows AT hikers to camp for free at the back of the cinema and watch the evening movie. For $5 you can hire a radio to hear the soundtrack, and for another $5 even hire a comfortable chair!

The movie of the night was Indiana Jones and the Dial of Destiny – although within 30 minutes of the movie starting, all but three of the hikers had gone to bed! Hikers tend to go to bed very early on trail…

Camping at the Warwick drive-in cinema

This section of the trail also has the most trail magic! There were plenty of groups out providing hikers with much-needed breaks from the trail. These unexpected breaks and opportunities to meet people really reflect the great AT culture and is definitely a highlight of the trail experience

Two ex-hiker families cooking for hikers in Pennsylvania

Sometimes lucky enough to arrive during magic setup!

The trail passes close by New York, so took a few days off to take a break. There’s a train station on hte AT itself, but unfortunately trains only stop there on weekends… There are a couple of access points for buses, however.

Returning to the trail, we finished the New York section and entered Connecticut. First stop was Kent for resupply, at which point it started raining. This was quite exciting, as the weather had been exceptionally dry up to this point – leading to some difficulties obtaining water from streams. Fortunately trail angels left water bottles at strategic road crossings for hikers. 

The rain in Kent continued up until the campsite that night. Little did we know at that point that it would end up a 1-in-500 year rain event and cause major damage to the trail!

The Great Appalachian Adventure 4

by | Sep 3, 2025 | Appalachian Trail

Damascus to Harpers Ferry (Mile 470 to Mile 1026)

Damascus was the first major ‘hiker vortex’ town we encountered. People would walk in, everyone planning to take a zero, enjoy a hot meal, see familiar faces, and hike on. However many hikers struggle to leave the comforts behind on departure day!

We managed to escape the vortex, mostly because of the clock ticking on the visa. There was however, a very jolly night with Slim, Bagel, Scoops n Blue, singing songs to the guitar. So, with a later start than usual, we took the Virginia Creeper Trail. This is one of the ‘Rail to Trail’ tracks that are becoming more common in the States. Old railroads – reliably flat, wide, and usually near water – have been converted into biking and hiking paths. On a dreary, drizzly morning, it made for a fast and pleasant walk out of town. 13 easy miles, and then back up into the mountains to rejoin the trail.

Virginia views

Shopping for trail meals – main source of nutrition for 5 months!

Our next major ‘highlight’ of the trail was yet another steep climb to high altitudes – the Grayson Highlands, home of the famous wild ponies. It would be 2-3 days of sustained high altitude during an unusually cold spring. The highlands were ecologically unique, with lots of balds. These are big, wide open spaces that have very few scraggly trees and lots of wide open meadows.

But, there were ponies. And snow. May 1 and there were tiny little flakes falling from the sky. In the morning, at the designated shelters (there is no free camping in the Highlands) hikers were waking up to frost, crunchy socks, and beautifully freezing scenery. Unfortunately it was also way too cold and wet to take photos

We hurried through, and began the final ascent to the famous ‘Friendship Shelter’. It is the first fancy shelter on the trail, with fancy meaning that it has four walls and a roof. Also, a hot shower (usually, but not always in service). There is a visitor center nearby that is friendly to hikers, heated, and has a land line which is most frequently used to order pizza from the nearby town. After leaving Damascus, this is THE highlight.

It is also the jumping off point for the shuttle to Marion – a handy town to re-supply, have a hot meal, go to an outfitters, and even do laundry if you stay at the hostel ‘Merry Hiker’. This hostel is conveniently located downtown above the outfitters.

From Marion, the next town stop was Pearisburg. Along the way we stopped at the appropriately-named Quarter Way hostel. 

Shelters are always a welcome sight

walkbridge over a river

The section approaching Roanoke passes through Dragon’s Tooth – dramatic rock formations that proved to be quite treacherous coming down in the wet. At the bottom, there’s a sign warning of a hazardous trail. Unfortunately they don’t give you the same warning coming from the other side

Descending the dragon’s tooth. Yes, that’s the trail

A misty day for the dragons tooth

Arriving in Roanoke was timed well to come off-trail for the annual Trail Days Damascus. It’s a yearly event to celebrate the Appalachian Trail community, and many previous, current and future hikers come together to celebrate the trail. We met a guy that was celebrating the 20th anniversary of his hike – a year where it rained over 75% of the days on trail! The weather for us had definitely been better (so far…)

Tent City at Trail Days in Damascus

Hiker parade at Trail Days

After Trail Days, we headed back to Roanoke to return the hire car and continue the trail. First up was McAfee Knob, which is the most famous spot for photos along the trail. There’s an outcrop of rock that with the right photo framing looks like you’re hanging out over a cliff. 

McAfee knob

Eagle deciding to jump. A few hikers prob felt the same way by now

Next stop was the Devils Backbone brewery. It’s a short distance from the trail, and they let thru-hikers stay for free in their campground. Unfortunately the beer was not also free. It’s a huge establishment and a comfortable place to stay

Devil’s Backbone brewery – before the crowds

Great weather led to campfires as an option

After the brewery, the next milestone is the Shenandoah National Park. For hikers, the highlight through here are the many cafes catering to day visitors to the park. Plenty of opportunities for sugar! However we took an even better option – a 2-day paddle down the Shenandoah river from Waynesboro to Luray. The daily elevation gain on the river was much better! The aquablaze, as it’s known, was a welcome reprieve from the hiking. There’s a series of minor rapids along the 40-mile paddle. Due to the low recent rainfall, the river was very low and led to some exciting rapids! We said goodbye to our reliable canoe and rejoined the trail at Luray, unfortunately just before the infamous rollercoaster
Paddling the Shenandoah river
Rapids – one where I was ok to have the phone out for
The “rollercoaster” is a 13 mile section of the AT at the end of Virginia that is infamous for 10 substantial ups and downs. It’s about 5000 feet of up and 5000 feet of down packed into 13 miles, with very little (nil) flat points in between. While I can understand why the hiking enthusiasts that run hiking clubs are proud of the challenge they’ve created, it really sucks when you’re 1000 miles into a hike that’s already challenging enough without having to endure this mess when a smarter route could easily wind through the terrain instead. I was not impressed. It’s a terrific example of marketing triumphing over elegant design. Maybe I was just hangry. Fortunately the Bears Den hostel is about 5 miles into the rollercoaster, and is really close to the Bears Den brewery. The brewery has a great garden and views through to the Washington monument in DC on a clear day (which we had!). A great spot to celebrate hitting the 1000 mile mark
Views of the Shenandoah
Bears Den Brewery – fantastic beer garden
After grumbling my way through the remaining 8 miles of the rollercoaster (turns out I wasn’t hangry – just grumpy), we finally made it to the end of Virginia! The AT runs through 500 miles of Virginia, which means it encompasses nearly a quarter of the whole trail. Following Virginia is the shortest state – West Virginia with only 4 miles. Maryland follows with 40 miles, and so some hikers will start at the Virginia border, and attempt to do the “4-state challenge” and cover Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland and into Pennsylvania in one day. However this means skipping through Harper’s Ferry, which is a gorgeous little town & full of history – it was quite pivotal in the US civil war period. It’s also the psychological half-way point of the AT, and a short train ride to take a side trip to see Washington DC. There were also a lot of hikers that start/end their section hike of the AT here – turns out not everyone can take 6 months off their life and do it all in one go… After a couple of rest days in Washington, it was back to the trail. Next up – Pennsylvania and it’s infamous rocks…
Finally! The end of Virginia!

The Great Appalachian Adventure 3

by | Aug 27, 2025 | Appalachian Trail

Hot Springs to Damascus (Mile 270 to Mile 470)

On our second night in Hot Springs, the hostel hosted a bonfire and we met several other AT hikers. After a fun night, we left town and went back to the trail. Immediately there was a steep climb, out of the river valley into the mountains. A landmark on the way is known as ‘Lovers Leap’ after a local Native american story about two young lovers. Their families that did not approve, and so, together they jumped to their deaths. Very strong Romeo and Juliet vibes.

On the trail, we passed a few familiar faces – at this point, more and more hikers had trail names. Bagel was heading for the ‘Cookie Lady’s’ house. This old lady is known for offering water, a rocking chair, and free cookies to any hiker who walks the extra 300 yards off trail to her house. Slim Pickings was suffering from black widow spider bites and had slowed down. Riot had decided an extra day in town was just the thing. Scoops was miles ahead of everyone as usual.

Views on the trail

Mountain harbor hostel – famous for their breakfast

The next few days were the hottest so far, and hiker after hiker was falling sick with the dreaded Norovirus. I caught the bug shortly before we reached the next town, so we shuttled into Erwin and took an extra day at Uncle Johnny’s hostel to rest and recover. The second night, there was a hiker named Laos who had just finished his section, and he made a BBQ feast. The rest of us bought drinks and snacks to contribute and we had another great evening. We also met two hikers who we would see repeatedly the whole way to Katahdin, Stealth and Pigeon.

Laos and his BBQ for hikers in Erwin

Finally! Winter gives way for the burst of spring growth

On a cool and misty day, we began the hike to Roan Mountain, the next Big Climb, and a surprisingly gentle one, when compared to what we had just done in the Smokies. This was one of the coldest nights on trail, with the temperatures hovering at freezing. The next morning saw  ice crystals in the soil.

Happily, we stumbled across more trail magic at the foot of the mountain. A hiking group out of Tennessee was setting up with hot tomato soup, grilled cheese sandwiches, hot chocolate and coffee and the usual assortment of bars, chips, soda, and first aid basics. Given the below-freezing temps from the night before, hikers enjoyed the opportunity to sit and warm up in the sun

View from Roan Mountain

Camping by a creek

After Roan mountain we hiked through to Mountain Harbor hostel – famous for it’s breakfast. Not being a breakfast person, I think it was kinda lost on me. Admittedly the spread of food was very impressive, but not really conducive for a long day of hiking ahead.

Trail magic at the foot of Roan Mountain. Thanks guys!

Spring has definitely sprung…

The last hostel we stayed in before Virginia was the Boots Off hostel at Lake Watauga. They have an aqua-blaze option, where you paddle up the lake instead of hiking. This sounded like a terrific option, but unfortunately it was cancelled on the day due to the lightning risk. That left no other option but to hike on…

400 miles down, 1800 to go…

The next trail town is Damascus, at the start of the state of Virginia. Leading into the town is a section of trail considered the flattest 26 miles of the trail. Some hikers choose to complete this in a single day to complete an official marathon length. It was definitely less mountainous than other sections, but definitely wasn’t flat…

Next stop – Virginia!

The Great Appalachian Adventure 2

by | Aug 27, 2025 | Appalachian Trail

Franklin to Hot Springs, via Smoky Mountains (Mile 110 to Mile 270)

After the zero day in Franklin, it was time to hit the trail again. After a further three nights on trail to reach the Smoky Mountains, where we would be hiking the highest elevations on trail. The days getting there had their own challenges.

First up was the hike to the NOC (Nantahala Outdoor Center) which the trail goes directly through. The descent down to the river valley was notoriously steep, with an actual, walk-in-the-door-off-the-trail, restaurant at the bottom (which was a welcome treat!). The weather forecast was not looking good, and many of the other hikers were planning to wait it out at the Wesser Bald shelter just before the descent. We chose to press on, which proved to be the right decision, given the rain that fell over the next couple days

Still a long way to go…

That night we stayed at Gorgeous Stays; more than just a hostel, the owner Elena has taken several forms of transportation and turned each into a camper with it’s own theme. There’s a red double decker bus with a Harry Potter theme, a small caravan with flamingo’s, a canine cabin, and several more. Laundry, loaner clothes, and small self-serve kitchen were available. We decided to stay two nights, which enabled my first “slackpack” – my main pack left behind for the day, and the hostel picked me up to return to the same accommodation for the night. Despite hiking through the storm, the less weight definitely made the hiking easier!

Hiking above the clouds

We continued on towards Fontana Dam. The shelter on the lake there is known as ‘The Hilton’ because it is more protected from the eements, has hot showers, and a great view of the lake. If it were a real Hilton, the view alone would be worth an extra 100 dollars. 

Fontana Hilton

Fontana Dam

As we were packing up our tent and heading to the Next Big Climb (4200 feet over 11 miles) we realised it was Easter Sunday. The climb from Fontana Dam to the Mollies Ridge Shelter is the first real haul – but worth every step. As we climber higher the lake spread out below us sparkling in the bright spring sun.

Mollies Ridge shelter turned out to be busiest shelter we seen since Hawks Shelter on the first trail night, with easily 20 people. A lot had taken 1 or 2 days off, waiting for the weather to improve before starting the Smokies, so it had created a bubble of hikers. Everyone was in a good mood – it had been a beautiful sunny day, and we had entered the Smokies!

Views in the Smokies

Yes, hiker hunger is real

Dancing along the border of North Carolina and Tennessee, the Smoky mountains dominate the landscape. A perpetual fog hovers above them, which is how they got their name. It’s one of the most visited national parks, and as such, a permit is needed for hiking and were only allowed to camp at designated sites. The shelters were quite busy, as all the hikers bunched up.

The trail goes along the ridge, and the change is immediately noticeable. Instead of sleeping wintery maple trees, we were walking through pine forests and beech trees. The ground underfoot became rockier and a carpet of delicate white flowers bloomed on the ground. We started seeing deer in the early morning beside the trail. 

Plenty of hiker tents at each shelter!

Great hiking weather & views to match

Our mileage dropped off, as the climbs became more demanding and the trail showed more wear and tear, slowing our pace. Within the Smokies is Clingman Dome, which is the highest point on the whole AT. At 6,600ft, it’s not a huge mountain by mountain standards – a feature of the AT is that there’s a lot of up-and-down trails without actually getting to significant elevations.

Clingsmans Dome was a particularly challenging hike. The AT wound up to the top, where there was a sudden inundation of car tourists. An Observation tower built in the 1950’s provides a sweeping 360 degree view.

View from Clingmans dome. The hideous concrete view structure would never get approved in more modern times. View is back towards the start of the AT

The next day we reached Newfound Gap, which is roughly halfway through the Smoky Mountains. Lots of hikers left from here to go into Gatlinburg for resupply and a rest. A surprising number of them never came back. The last few days had been challenging and very, very cold. Walking out of the gap, we were treated to some of the most spectacular scenery yet. A narrow trail went along the ridge with views to the east and west.

Plenty of rocky climbs!

Deers feeding in the morning

Our last night in the Smoky’s we arrived at Cosby Knob camp and were told a hiker who had arrived earlier had seen a bear come running down the trail, straight through camp. During the night, I was pretty sure I could hear it wandering around the tents!

It was a drizzly morning as we left the mountains, heading down to the Davenport Gap. Here we found more trail magic, on an epic scale. A church group from Tennessee was doing their annual trail magic BBQ. There was a canopy set up to keep the rain off, camping chairs, and the best steak sandwich I’ve ever had.

Hiking along the ridgeline

Shelters in the smokies were impressive stone structures

The first stop out of the Smoky Mountains is Hot Springs. The trail goes straight through town, no detours or shuttling required. In fact, it’s the first proper “town” the trail passes through. The first real civilisation after 270 miles (430km) and about 3 weeks. The main hostel is Laughing Heart, a B&B as well as the AT hiker bunkhouse. It is located just outside town, and a short walk to the grocery shop, the outfitters, ice cream shop and local brewery – all welcome sights!

lunchtime!

enjoying the views

The Great Appalachian Adventure 1

by | Aug 26, 2025 | Appalachian Trail

Amicalola Falls & Springer Mountain to Franklin (Mile 0 – Mile 110)

 

 

Every Northbound (NOBO) hiker on the Appalachian trail starts at Springer Mountain in Georgia. Getting to Springer itself is quite a logistical effort! Getting there directly via car requires travel on back country roads, so most hikers start from Amicalola Falls. This adds 8 miles to the 2,198.4 mile journey, but is considered the better option.

We signed in at the ranger’s station on March 24, took our first AT photo under the iconic arch, and then climbed the stairs past the flowing waterfalls to the lodge where we stayed the night. From our warm bed we watched the lightning playing across the sky and the rain beating against the windows, hoping it would pass over through the night. Turned out to be a much better option to spend one last night in an actual lodge! Tomorrow’s weather was predicted to be dry and sunny.

 

 

 

 

 

The famous AT starting arch at Amicalola Falls is actually 8mi (downhill) from the startline

The beginning of the AT is infamous for being one of the most difficult parts of the trail, mostly because of its many (and constant) climbs. There is no time to change gears from going up, then down a hill. In retrospect, it’s not that hard. Most of us just simply weren’t trail fit yet. Months later we would realise that the “hard start” never really let up! 

Blood Mountain is the first real peak and of the hikers who make it this far, roughly 30% call it quits at this point. Much more challenging than Springer Mountain, the climb up the backside is gradual and easy, but coming down it’s a boulder-filled knee-jarring descent. Happily, the first outdoor shop, Mountain Crossings, is on the other side of the mountain with frozen pizzas, shake-down’s to eliminate extra weight, and cabins.

Well that’s an intimidating map… The Appalachian Trail in it’s full 2200 mile glory…

Are we there yet?? View from the northern side of Blood Mountain

By Mountain Crossings we had been on the trail for 4 nights, and had met enough people that there was a reunion-like feeling seeing familiar faces at the picnic tables outside the store. Everyone is fresh, excited, and eager for the journey – regardless of whether they are prepared or not. It was already proving hard to not judge those that seemed to be carrying way too many snacks.

We were well-prepared, but that night, the temperatures hovered just above freezing. We pitched the tent in Swaim Gap, a mile past Mountain Crossings. It was early spring, so the trees were bare, and on a ridge. Throughout the night, I would hear the wind roaring, a sound similar to ocean waves, and would brace myself, anticipating the cold as it cut through our tent, taking the warmth of our bodies with it. It was about this time that I realised my faithful tent was not really suited to cold weather…

Home Sweet Home for 5 months

The days quickly settled into a rhythm. From Mtn Crossings it would be three days to get to Hiawassee & Clayton. There was a hostel there called ‘Around the Bend’ that will pick hikers up from the trailhead for free, if you’re staying with them. The Outfitter 76 in Clayton also runs a free shuttle from the trailhead to town. For many hikers, this is the first stop for laundry, a hot meal, and beer. 

Leaving the hostel, it was a drippy, misty morning. Some of the hikers decided to stay an extra day to avoid the weather, but we were on a schedule (due to the six-month visa), and anyway, it wasn’t raining that hard. We were rewarded with a break in the weather, a wide open empty trail, and the peaceful quietude that settles over woods after the rain. We were excited, in the next couple days we would cross our first state line and pass the 100 mile mark.

Everyone talked about how difficult Georgia was, and apparantly North Carolina was supposed to be much easier. Instead, we were welcomed by three STEEP climbs that came fast and quick. It was a windy day and the struggle to stay upright with a full pack was real. That evening at the Muskrat Shelter, every hiker was exhausted and a bit ticked-off by the hype that NC would be easier. It did NOT get easier. Oddly enough, this became a bit of a theme a each state crossing!

My very first Trail Magic!

The next two days to Franklin were marked by steeper ascents, continued misty weather, and a noticeable decrease in the number of hikers. ‘Tramilies’ were forming – trail families, groups of hikers who would begin and end the day together, catch up at lunch and any other milestones during the day.

Finally, we were on the last approach to the Winding Stair Gap. The day before we had walked 16 miles, so the 12 miles to the gap should have been easy. The continued cold and misty weather, the relentless ups and downs (a theme of the trail), and the expectation of a warm bed and a zer0 day (hiking-free day) tomorrow made it seem exceptionally long. Additionally, the shuttle only ran three times a day so there was an urgency to the hike.

On reaching the gap, there was a pleasant surprise – our first trail Magic! Trail Magic is when a charitable individual or group spends the day at a trailhead, road crossing, or park along the AT with treats for thru hikers. Usually this is soft drinks & snacks. Sometimes, a BBQ and beers. This time, it was donuts, chips, soda and PBR’s courtesy of a thru hiker from 2017 named ‘Lucky’. He had brought his RV and spent the cold rainy day handing out treats and drinks. By the time we got there, he was finishing up and offered to take us into town.

After what felt like weeks (but was actually only 10 nights), we had reached Franklin.

110 miles down, 2090 miles to go…

Another intimidating AT map – after 10 days, it felt like we should’ve been a little further!

Journey Through Jordan

by | Aug 24, 2025 | Middle East, Top Trips

Reaching the iconic Treasury of Petra

In February of 2022, I was able to realise a lifelong dream of seeing Petra. Not just Petra, of course – I saw as much of Jordan as possible! The itinerary was as follows:

Drive through a sandstorm from Amman to Petra – home of the hidden Treasury and more…

After Petra, drove south to Wadi Rum – deep desert dunes home to the Bedouins and where camels roam.

From Wadi Rum I went north to the Dead Sea – luxury R&R and the historically significant Jordan River.

Read it all, or skip ahead to the part that tempts you the most! I recommend reading everything, of course.

Petra: Beyond the Treasury

If ever you think of Petra, surely it will be associated with the iconic image of the Treasury. This impressive facade has been carved into the red sandstone, pillars and sculptures drawn from Greek Hellenistic culture – made famous by Indiana Jones. It is beautiful, and because it is very easy to get to, it is also the most obvious place to start as a tourist.

To reach it, you walk (or ride a camel, donkey or golf cart) down the to the Treasury. Sheer red walls tower above you, and along the way are ancient carvings made by the Nabateeans. There are ancient water systems in place, built by these people to distribute the water throughout the city. I did a little nosing around at the museum, and it wouldn’t be a stretch to suppose that the Romans learned a lot about their famed aqueducts by observing and building on the techniques used here and throughout the Nabateean empire. But I digress.

Water aqueducts along the sides of the Siq. Originally covered by pipes they were destroyed by conquering Romans in 2nd century AD

The Siq twists and winds its way, and suddenly opens up into the small plaza-like space in front of the Treasury. There, we were able to sit and enjoy a cup of strong Arabic coffee and enjoy the red colors shift as the sun climbed, banishing the shadows that put into stark relief the beautiful sculptures. There was still a fair amount of tourists and Instagrammers, despite the pandemic but far fewer than usual. A few ledges have been re-purposed into photo destinations, for those in the know (I was not in the know). Its common to dress up, take a golf cart down, pay the 5 euro to pose on the famous red carpet with the Treasury in the background. Stunning photos, but not when one is in sensible hiking pants and layers.

The Treasury was “lost” and then re-discovered to the West in 1812

The rest of the day we spent wandering around the valley of tombs beyond the Treasury. There are over 3,000 currently accounted for and they range from small and modest (many of these are now thought to be living quarters), to grand and spectacular. These smaller tombs are all around the valley from the floor and up the walls.

Dan on top first level of tombs with more behind

One downside was the sheer number of people selling souvenuirs. At first, I thought they were displaced Bedouins, living in the shadow of former empire. But later in the trip I learned, that no, these are gypsies. They sell everything from donkey rides, to scarves. Some of them even sell rocks and aloe vera plants, both of which yes, you can just pick up off the ground. There is a Roman ampitheatre as well (those guys really got everywhere), mosaics, the tombs of the Nabateean Kings (which is at least three times wider than the Treasury). Its an incredibly massive place, and we did not manage to explore all of it in three days.

Roman Ampitheatre and  starting point to hike to the Place of High Sacrifice

Mosaics discovered under the sand

Tomb of the Kings, with Nabateean style columns

The Place of High Sacrifice is set on the highest cliff. We attempted the walk, but the sheer vertical walls and the tiny steep steps proved too much. The ledges looked a little precarious! I think if we had gone with a guide, and gone from the correct starting point there would’ve been a chance.

Tourists on camelback heading up to the Monastery

Another hair-raising walk was going to the Monastery from the back of the valley. It can be reached in two ways: from within the valley up a long series of steps and through the gauntlet of hucksters, or to be dropped off in the desert behind the Valley, and walk in over the sand and mountains. We chose the latter, and on our second day woke up early to start the hike. The early morning air was crisp and cold, and it was very peaceful, with almost no one else in sight. Incredibly tiny and beautiful flowers were blooming along the not very well-marked path. Following stone cairns and having a downloaded a trail guide helped a lot.

Once you enter the back of the valley, the familiar red rocks of Petra start to climb up, and up and up. There was a cheerful little coffee stand, with hot Arabic coffee, Tibetan prayer flags, and the piney smell of juniper smoke. After this point, the path narrowed, and continued to climb. A little old lady with a goat left as we approached, and she was ahead of us the entire way. The most exciting bit, was when the path went out around and under an overhanging cliff. One had to hug the wall, or plummet into the desert several hundred meters below. Our goat lady walked around it nonchalantly and disappeared. We paused. It was one of those, ‘we’ve come too far to go back, I am going to have to do this’ kind of moments.

After that, it was mostly business as usual. Looking for the piles of stone cairns so as not to lose the way as the trail flattened out, and then we came up and over a bluff and there was the Monastery. It is HUGE. I cannot understate the immensity. It is not as easy to reach as the Treasury (by a long shot) and it is not as well preserved because it is more exposed to the elements, but if you go all the way to Petra, definitely go to the Monastery.

 

 

The Petra Monastery – harder to get to than the Treasury, but definitely worth it

Wadi Rum: Deep Desert Dunes

 

If Petra is the ancient, hidden treasure in the craggy rock-strewn desert of Central Jordan, than Wadi Rum is the gateway to the desert of dunes, dreams, and the Arabian nights. The pink and red sands dance between geologic monoliths of incomprehensibly ancient seas, raised up by tectonics that defy all logic. Ancient hieroglyphs are hidden in tiny gullies. For millenia, these hid pockets of reliable water the nomadic Bedouin tribes who roamed the desert that encompasses most of the Arabian peninsula.

The only way to experience Wadi Rum is to book a tour. There are several companies running these tours, and you can go out just for the day, one night, two or more etc. You can do the Bedouin style tent like we did, or go for the high-end glamping experience in a bubble building. Whichever way you do it, you will see the same major sights on the first day.

Our group piled into the very authentic Bedouin vehicle (Landrover), and we headed into the desert. The first stop was a quick stop to boulder up some rocks and get a sweeping panoramic view of the valley. At the top were a few brave trees, that had managed to grow because of a small natural spring. After that, we headed to one of the highlights, the hieroglyphs. Our guide told us that the glyphs found throughout Wadi Rum dated back to prehistoric times, as early as 4500 BC. They were used to indicate havens from the elements and reliable sources of water. There were symbols that indicated which way to go, and what would be found there. It was lovely and cool between the rocks.

Next stop was a natural bridge. Wadi Rum is full of geologic points of interest; multiple natural bridges, mushroom shaped rocks that rise out of the dunes, enormous that tower over the sands. There is a lot about the stone that remains unexplained to this day. Legend has it, that the famed cities of Soddom and Gomorah once stood there, and a massive tectonic event leveled them, and this is why the rocks of Wadi Rum don’t follow the usual order. Originally the sandstone and granite was a seabed, and has now had millions of years of winds that have created these unusual shapes.

We spent the rest of the day driving around the desert, stopping to hike through canyons and climb up rocks. Everywhere we went was just gorgeous. I could see why directors have been coming here to film movies for the last 60 years. The colors, and the scale of everything takes your breath away – that and the wind. We were lucky enough to be there in February, and it was a bit chilly but I’d rather be cold then hot.

After a few more stops, we headed to the camp. By this point we were all really hungry, as lunch had been hummus, vegetable soup, and pita bread. Dinner was a feast! We were serenaded by the collected guides, and served chicken which had been cooked in the traditional way – a huge iron pot was buried in the sand with burning coals and unearthed with a bunch of fuss for the tourists. All finished off with more Arabic coffee.

Since we had an earlier start and were already in the desert, we were able to see things that were off the beaten path, with fewer tourists. Although we had stayed the night in a ‘Bedouin-style’ camp and tent, they were clearly built for delicate tourists, rather than desert nomads. Today, we went to a real Bedouin camp, where we had lunch and of course, Arabic coffee. These were humble dwellings, made of rope and blankets. The goats wandered around camp, and there were a few more hieroglyphs on a nearby rockface.

They also had a lot of camels! This was quite a highlight, because we didn’t just get to see them, but were able to feed them and pet them and had the option of drinking milk, fresh from the teat. As the food was fresh and green, the camels were quite frisky. They ranged in color from caramel to a beautiful cream color, and the babies had incredibly soft fur. They weren’t shy at all, and our guide showed us that it was quite safe to let them nibble at your fingers. Also, we learned that the collective noun for camels, is a caravan. 

Next up, we were driven to a formation of rocks that looked out over the border to Saudi Arabia. We were close enough that my cell phone provider kept switching back and forth between the Jordanian network and the Saudi one. The vista here was amazing, and we were met by our guide’s cousin and his group as well. There was the chance to go sandboarding, and the two guides showed off doing backflips as they raced down the dune face. At sunset we stopped to take in the view and have some more Arabic coffee, with camel milk! It had a very strong flavor. We also had asked our guide to not put the sugar in, which he viewed as an absolute travesty. 

All in all, it was as authentic an experience as one could expect. There were unavoidable elements of the modern day tourist industry, but I left with a respect for desert nomads I hadn’t had before. The elements are truly brutal, and you live at their mercy. But the landscape is beautiful, and it was clear that our guide was very proud to live there as a true Bedouin, with history that goes back thousands of years. I imagine life stayed very much the same until quite recently. 

Dead Sea: Luxury and History

 

One of the many unique things about Jordan, is that despite it’s seemingly remote location, it was a crossroads for empires and cultures for thousands of years. It doesn’t have a coastline, but is close enough to the Mediterranean sea. Anyone travelling by land from Northern Africa to Turkiye, and Europe would pass through Jordan. It had a rich and influential empire before the Romans came, and was occupied by several different empires since. It is also a place of religious significance where you can walk in the footsteps of significant figures from the three of the world’s largest religions.

We visited one of these sites, known as Bethany-Beyond-Jordan which is believed to be where John the Baptist baptised Jesus in the River Jordan. The river meanders along, a shadow of its former self due to irrigation and farming. It defines the border between Israel and Jordan, and both countries have a strong presence here. It was very startling to be in a place of such holy significance, with armed guards. The Jordanian side had gone for a rustic traditional look, with a cistern for babies to be baptised in, as well as a dock where adults could go to be re-baptised in the waters.

In the foreground, the Jordanian side. In the background, the Israeli flag flies

Our guide was very diplomatic in explaining the ins and outs of the political situations, and the significance of the location for all three monotheistic religions. When one of the members of our group asked him about his personal religion of choice, he very tactfully replied “I believe in God”. He also told us about some of the recent archaelogical findings on the Jordanian side of the river. Recently discovered, and unearthed was what they believe was the true site of the baptism. Because the river used to flood and recede annually, its path to the Dead Sea would change from year to year. The path it follows now, is not the same as 2000 years ago, and because of agricultural irrigation, it barely even reaches the sea.

In 1994, a peace treaty was reached between Israel and Jordan. So they were able to get rid of the minefield that was previously along the border and begin excavation of the area. In 1996, near a freshwater stream that fed into the river, they found the structure that is now commonly accepted as the place where the baptism happened.

It’s generally agreed that this excavation is the most likely site of Jesus’ baptism

Although I am not personally a religious person, there is something about being in a place that means so much to so many. Seven of the people in the group had travelled from Alabama, sponsored by their church, to be re-baptised in the river. Our guide obviously had a deep respect and understanding of it all. Even the amount of security served to re-inforce the importance of where we were.

But there is a lot to do in the Dead Sea that doesn’t involve such heavy topics. For example, swimming! We were lucky enough that the resort we stayed in had steps leading down to the sea itself, and at the shore, there were urns full of the famous mud and salt. Dead Sea products are sold all over the world, so of course we had to try it. A lifeguard explained to us the process. First, you hop in the sea (do NOT get the water in your eyes – it will burn). Second, you cover yourself in mud and let it dry on your skin. Then you hop into the water again to rinse off, and when you come out you scrub your body down with the salt. Don’t ask me the exact mineral composition, but I can confirm that my skin felt baby soft after the process.

Heading back to the resort we were welcomed back in the lobby by a man handing out, you guessed, Arabic coffee. As it was COVID times, he had a mask on but removed it for the sake of a photo. It was such an intricate contraption, and as always, the coffee was strong and sweet.

We enjoyed a stunning sunset from the balcony of the main hotel, and then went for dinner at one of the restaurants in the resort. It was styled like a small town, with stone buildings with larger apartments around plazas with restaurants, cafes and shops. Most of these were closed, because there was simply almost no one there. One plaza was open, and we ate al fresco while a belly dancer entertained us and the few other visitors.

It was a nice way to finish the trip. I feel like we really got to see many different sides of Jordan, and learned a lot about it’s people. The south has a very strong desert vibe, but as we went north orchards began to appear and the landscape, while still harsh, was more cultivated. Everyone we met was warm and friendly, and the food was healthy. 

Hostels & Hotels on the Appalachian Trail

by | Oct 3, 2023 | Appalachian Trail, Travel Tips

Georgia to Maine

There are many ways to hike the AT -NOBO vs SOBO, flip flop or LASHing- but every hiker will spend a few nights under a roof, in a bed on the way. Dan and I managed about once a week to sleep inside with all the perks. Even if not officially a ‘hostel’ most places that welcome hikers offer at bare minimum shower & laundry. Most will also have loaner closets – spare, Clean clothes that hikers can wear while washing everything else. Sometimes, it’s just a campground that offers free or discounted camping for thru-hikers. Once memorable occasion, it was a drive-inn movie theatre. Each spot will have it’s own unique atmosphere based on the people who run it, do they cater only to AT hikers, and how close to the ‘bubble’ you are.

Here are the places we stayed, from south to north:

Above the Clouds, GA
Around the Bend, GA*
Gorgeous Stays, NC
Franklin Hotel, NC
Laughing Heart, TN
Uncle Johnnys, TN
Mountain Harbor,TN
Boots Off, TN
Broken Fiddle, VA
Merry Hiker, VA
Quarterway Inn, VA*
Wood Hole, VA
Angels Rest, VA*
Middlecreek Campground, VA
Devils Backbone Brewery Campground, VA
Stanimals Waynesboro, VA
Open Arms, VA
Mountain Home, VA*
Bears Den, VA
Towns Inn, WV
Zero Day, PA
South Mountain Hotel, PA
Ironmasters Mansion Hostel, PA*
Doyle Hotel, PA
Sunny Rest, PA
DWG, PA/NJ
Warwick Drive-In, NJ
Maria’s, CT
Catamount Inn, VT
Inn at the Long Trail, VT
Hikers Welcome, VT
The Notch, NH*
Libby’s House, NH
Ellis Pines, ME
Roadhouse of Maine, ME*
Hostel of Maine, ME
Shaws, ME

*My Favorite Hostels

Everybody has different taste when it comes to what you want from a hostel. On the AT the hostel vibes ran from quiet and sedate to full-on party places. Most had a balanced blend of the two, with a couple extremes. For Dan and I, we found our favorite’s tended to be clean with a good kitchen, close enough to town that we could wander or shuttle in to shop and have a meal. We also enjoyed places that had comfortable communal living space, where hikers could lounge on comfortable couches and talk, or catch up on the socials.

Roadhouse of Maine (ME): the epitome of a hikers hostel. Shuttle pick-ups and drop-off included with stay This was one of the few times we stayed in a dorm, and it was incredibly well designed-privacy curtains, charging ports, personal nightlights and fans with plenty of room to re-organize your pack. THe private rooms were small, and grouped along the hallway to the bathrooms. Downstairs was magnificent. Log cabing interior style, a huge kitchen with two fridges, tons of shelves for storage, and a massive stove, with two smaller ovens for pizzas. Living room with a TV & comfortable seating on couch for ten, and another seating area around a smaller coffee. There was also a corner bar with Another pizza oven, and a small drinks fridge (no beers on sale but the shuttles ran at hikers convenience until 8pm and would take you into town for whatever you needed). They also had a very well-stocked re-supply shop, at prices that weren’t too outrageous. Breakfast for additional fee.

Extra points: when you left in the morning, one of the ‘Jens’ would be sure to snap your polaroid and put it on the wall in the kitchen. It was really fun to find hikers we met who had already passed this way.

The Notch Hostel (NH): this hostel caters to both AT thru-hikers, and to people who are coming to New Hampshire to complete various other milestones, and casual hikers. It’s very comfortable with 4-6 bed rooms, multiple bathrooms and showers, a gorgeous dining room with good sized kitchen. There is a normal sized living room, and lots of outdoor seating, comfy hammock, and two balconies. All hiker gear is stored in a shed outback, so the inside is clean and uncrowded. It has the feeling of a well-organized BnB, with meticulous decor, and private rooms with comfortable beds. One of the private rooms has it’s own bathroom and balconey.

Extra points: You can slackpack here from Hikers Welcome which is just on the other side of Mt Moosilauke, and they offer a free slackpack when you stay two nights to help the AT hiker get over and through the Kinsman Notch, which is one of the most challenging 15 miles on the AT. They also have bikes you can take into town, which is about 15 minutes away.

Ironmasters Mansion Hostel (PA): just a few miles past the halfway point, this old mansion is a located in a state park, near the AT museum. It can sleep at least 30 people, and the private room here feels like something out of a museum with antique furniture, an enormous bed, and a private en suite bathroom. There is one caretaker running the whole thing, so self check-ins and making your own bed is part of the deal. It’s a historic building in it’s own right, and next door is a general store that has a grill which is open most of the day. It’s only a five minute walk to the lake for a swim where there is also a snack shack with limited food options. Kitchen facilities are minimal, but they do have frozen pizza and offer breakfast with coffee for a small fee.

Extra points: next door is the location of the ‘Half Gallon Challenge’ so it’s a fun spot to pass the afternoon, watching hikers coming in and eating themselves sick. There’s also a great long front porch that gives you a view of hiker’s coming into town.

Mountain Home BnB (VA): this BnB caters to thru-hikers and other tourists as well. It is less than a five minute walk off the trail, and has all the typical AT amenities – laundry, loaner clothes, showers, etc. We stayed in the shared cabin which sleeps two upstairs, two downstairs, has a shared bathroom and kitchen. The owners are a married couple and they bend over backwards to take their guests into and out of town, and give you a full tour of what Front Royal has to offer before dropping you off. The BnB itself is a beautiful, architecturally historic southern-style white building, that they have lovingly refurbished.

Bonus: when you first arrive you are welcomed with an incredibly refreshing beverage -homemade limeade or lemonade. The breakfast is here is also one of the best I had on trail. Visit the Beer Museum in town, and if you’re lucky, Kim will be working behind the bar (yes, at the museum!)

Angels Rest Hostel (VA): this is a traditional AT hostel. It used to be a caravan park, and has been given over completely to helping AT hikers. There is a very spacious bunkhouse, multiple shower and bathrooms (and a spare porta-potty or two). Down behind the bunkhouse is a hikers kitchen, with all the basics. There is also a double wide trailer that offers a private room with it’s own bathroom, a living room with couch and TV, and a full-service kitchen. Tables and hammocks are scattered around the yard, and a grocery store is a five minute walk away.

Bonus: the town of Pearisburg isn’t very big, but everything is in walking distance. This means the grocery store, the Mexican restaurant, fast food options, fantastic coffee cafe, CVS pharmacy and a decently stocked outfitters are all convenient. They offer a “Triple Zero” badge, as many hikers wind up staying an extra day or two.

Quarterway Inn (VA): this was probably my favorite hostel – the location, atmosphere and breakfast were all fantastic. The dorms upstairs can house about 15 hikers, with two ‘private rooms’ separated by a curtain from the main dorm. There is also a full private room with a bed and a door, next to the upstairs bathroom. Downstairs is a large living room full of gaes, books and musical instruments. The hiker kitchen has a pizza oven and microwave, just enough to feed hungry hikers. There is no nearby town, but they keep enough on hand at the in-house resupply store & fridge. It’s 3/4 of a mile off the trail, in a rural part of Southern Virginia. The owners are very welcoming, and breakfast is hearty and healthy. A beautiful front porch with rocking chairs, and an enormous sycamore with hammocks completes the relaxing vibe.

Bonus: Tina, the owner, is the creator of the famous Appalachian trail necklace. An excelelnt souvenuir of the trail.

Around the Bend (GA): for many hikers this is one of the first hostels they stay at. It is close to Clayton and Hiawassee, with free shuttles into town as well as pick-up and drop-off from the trail. Another family style hostel, the dorms here are 4-6 twin beds in a room. A separate building has two private rooms that share a shower. In the main house, there are two bathrooms and a full kitchen for hikers who head to town, rather than having a frozen pizza. A living room with enormous picture windows looks out over the property, and there is a large firepit in the back that the staff will light up every night.

Bonus: there is a very well-stocked resupply here, with wide variety of food as well as gear. Gordon the owner is knowledgable and passion about his products and doesn’t gouge the AT hiker the way some larger in-town outfitters do.

And there you have it. For short descriptions on the rest of the hostels we stayed at, follow this link: